Jag avslutade min skidsäsong helt abrupt, men på absolut bästa sätt med Keb Classic. Det blev den roligaste tävlingen med de bästa åken för säsongen. Det var för nästan exakt en månad sedan och jag har sedan dess inte tänkt skidor överhuvudtaget. Jag for nämligen direkt till Kina efter avslutad tävling och har nu tillbringat fyra händelserika veckor här.
Jag har tillbringat mest tid i västra Kina på hög höjd i provinserna Yunnan och Sichuan. Första veckan var jag i Shangri-La på löpar camp med internationella Salomon laget och det blev en rivstart på löpsäsongen samt väldigt roligt för mig, som bara har varit med sedan i fjol, att lära känna nya människor. Vi bodde på 3200meters höjd samt tränade på upp till en bit över 4000 meters höjd, så visst kändes det i uppförsbackarna!
Därefter spenderade jag en vecka i Linhai, ett par timmar utanför Shanghai som ledare för ett kinesiskt ultra running camp där de 80 deltagarna avslutade med att springa 100km. Jag nöjde mig med distansen 47 km och fick ett väldigt fint lopp bland bambuskog, teplantage, övervuxna stentrappor, byar, uppe på bergsryggar med utsikt över böljande gröna berg.
Efter dessa veckor valde jag att stanna kvar i Kina när de andra åkte hem eftersom jag var sugen på att springa ett skyrace som gick på hög höjd uppe i bergen i en fantastiskt vacker nationalpark. Nu var höjden ytterligare något högre än i Shangri-La och det var skönt att bo och träna på 4000 meters höjd under ett par dagar för att försöka acklimatisera sig innan det var dags för Yading skyrunning festival.
Först ut var en vertikal kilometer som startade på knappt 4000 meters höjd och gick upp till 5000 meters höjd. Fastän jag försöker att ta det lugnt och spara mig till 46 km loppet som går dagen därpå har jag aldrig någonsin flåsat så mycket i mitt liv. Det hjälper inte hur mycket jag försöker förse min kropp med syre, mitt flåsande räcker liksom inte till och de få korta partierna med plattare kupering räcker inte heller till för att få ner andningen till en normalare nivå. Men oj vad vackert det var! Med 200 höjdmeter kvar passerar vi en klarblå glaciärsjö som de omgivande bergen speglar sig i och strax därpå ligger målgången allra högst upp i ett pass.
Nästa dag går 46 km loppet och jag hade redan gjort stora delar av banan tidigare när jag sprungit runt berget, men jag hade aldrig haft fint väder och sikt som på tävlingsdagen. Tidigare hade jag haft snö/hagel storm varje gång jag passerade 4700 meters passen, nu var det istället strålande sol hela dagen samt flera energi- och vätskestationer som lokalbefolkningen hade transporterat ut på hästar. Jag kan springa loppet som en lång och vacker träningstur och vinna, men jag har samma känsla som under vertikalen, att oavsett hur långsamt jag tycker att jag springer blir det jobbigt på den här höjden.
Efter tävlingsdagarna har jag fem dagar kvar i Kina innan jag far mot La Palma och Transvulcania. Jag känner att det är dags att flytta på mig och åker ett par timmar norrut till en stad som heter Litang och som även den ligger på över 4000meters höjd. Jag gillar Litang omdelbart. Yading var vackert, men bara uppbyggt för rika kinesiska turister från storstäderna med stora halvfärdiga hotellbyggnader överallt. Litang däremot är ett tibetanskt wild west. Litang är en av de platser där tibetaner starkast öppet har motsatt sig kinesiskt styre och alla ansikten jag möter på gatan talar om ett tufft och hårt liv. Jag kan tänka mig att man blir ganska härdad av att bo här ett helt liv. 4000 meters höjd och bara öppna vindpinade böljande gräskullar åt alla håll man kan se. Säkert svinkallt på vintern och en brännande sol under sommaren. Nu är det någonting mitt emellan. När solen är framme är det gassande varmt, men plötsligt drar en hagel- snöskur in och det blir iskallt. Litang är ett av få ställen där skyburial fortfarande praktiseras. De döda läggs under ceremoni ut på kullarna omkring staden och därefter låter man naturen ha sin gång. När jag springer över dessa öde kullar tänker jag att det känns helt rätt att överlämna sina döda till eftervärlden på detta sätt när man bor i en av de högst belägna städerna på jorden och bara är omgiven av himmel och gräs. Varför gräva ner de döda i jorden när himlen finns precis över huvudet?
Nästa morgon vill jag utforska bergen som jag skymtar i horisonten från Litang. Jag ställer mig vid en vägkorsning för att invänta någon förbipasserande bil som ska åt det hållet. I min väntan får jag sällskap av världens skönaste motorcykelgäng, ruffigt klädda män där alla har sin egen alldeles speciella stil vilket gör att de lyckas framstå som ett ganska coolt gäng. Men när det gäller stilmedvetenhet är det ändå motorcyklarna som betyder något. De är utsmyckade till tänderna och kreativiteten flödar. Efter en halvtimme får jag lift med en bil som ska till första byn i närheten av bergen. Jag har tänkt att jag ska börja vandra därifrån till ett munkkloster som ligger precis i foten på det högsta berget i området, Mt Genie, strax över 6000 meter. I början går jag utmed en ganska intetsägande grusväg där det passerar någon enstaka bil. Sedan kommer jag upp i dalgångarna och det öppna gräslandskapet breder ut sig under bergen. Mt Genie är bara ett berg av många i en lång bergskedja. Ett oväder börjar dra in och hagelstormarna avlöser varandra. Nu syns ingen av bergstopparna längre och det är omöjligt att avgöra vilken dalgång jag ska ta sikte på. Hemma känner jag mig alltid väldigt trygg med en karta i handen, men i många länder är det svårt att få tag i någon som helst form av karta över ett område. Den här gången har jag bara lärt mig två namn, namnet på byn som jag skulle lifta till och namnet på det munkkloster där jag tänkte övernatta. Jag har även kastat en snabb blick på en halvtaskig kinesisk skiss över området som då kändes glasklar, men som jag nu inser inte alls var skalenlig. Ett annat problem här är att alla byar har minst fyra eller fem olika namn, ett kinesiskt, ett tibetanskt, ett engelskt som kanske står i reseböcker eller på internet, men i verkligheten kallas byn ett helt annat namn vilket gör alltihop ganska förvirrande.
Tillbaka till mitt irrande över kullar och dalgångar i hagelstormen. Jag kan säga att de här var en av de dagar som jag kände mig lite oinspirerad. Jag var fortfarande trött efter en hård träningsvecka och två lopp på hög höjd och jag hade inte den minsta lust att springa med en otymplig ryggsäck utan kände mest för att spatsera omkring och filosofera. För en gångs skull ville jag förutom landskapet ha ytterligare någon form av förströelse och stimulans så jag lyssnade på Alex och Sigges podcast. Under ett avsnitt diskuterar de hur man kan skapa en känsla och sinnesstämning genom att kombinera dåliga och bra känslor till en starkare upplevelse. Precis de tankegångarna stämde in på mig då.
Även om Kina har varit fantastiskt har jag börjat längta hem den senaste veckan. De personer som jag har umgåtts med har åkt hem i olika omgångar och jag är ensam kvar. När jag lämnar Kina har jag ytterligare en resa till La Palma och Transvulcania innan jag är hemma igen i mitten av maj. Mitt i allt nytt och spännande som jag upplever började jag fantisera om att komma hem till Norge igen, ta ett morgondopp från bryggan, gräva och så i trädgårdslandet, fikapauser med RIKTIGT kaffe och kanelbullar. Det här var en sådan dag när jag inte var 100 % i nuet, utan jag var trött, avtrubbat drömmande, vandrandes och på något sätt passade den där kombinationen perfekt. Jag var ensam vilse någonstans i bergen i Kina i en hagelstorm, men eftersom jag hade regnkläder, dunjacka och pannlampa orkade jag inte känna någon stress inför detta eftersom även om jag inte hittar fram klarar jag mig alltid. Jag fortsatte därför obekymrat att ströva omkring i hagelstormen lyssnandes på Alex och Sigge som kändes väldigt svenskt där och då. Kontrasterna och den något absurda situationen skapade något som nästan liknade den där ”söndagskänslan”. Lugnt, skönt och avslappnat med en touch av vemod eftersom man vet att det snart är måndag och man behöver börja agera igen.
Till slut hittar jag faktiskt fram till rätt dalgång och helt plötsligt innan det blir mörkt väljer solen att titta fram igen och låter sina sista strålar lysa på det guldglittrande taket på klostret, som där och då nästan framstår som en hägring. Jag får yaksmörste av munkarna och en madrass och filt att sova på. De installerar även en solpanelsdriven, helt livsfarlig, lampa med uppklippta fritt hängande elledningar som en munk visar hur jag ska föra ihop med varandra för att lampan ska lysa. Jag försöker säga att det är okej och att jag föredrar att elda i den lilla kaminen. Jag sover i alla fall gott utan elchocker och tar mig nästa morgon upp i ett bergspass där jag lägger mig ner och lyssnar på tystnaden, på de enstaka stenarna som rasar ner utmed klippväggarna eller en ensam fågel som någon gång passerar. En plats som både är absolut lugn, ensamhet och utlämnande. En sådan där stark kombinationskänsla igen!
Nu är jag åter på en kinesisk flygplats och sitter och väntar på flyget mot Peking och några flyg senare ska jag landa på La Palma för löparårets första stora utmaning Transvulcania på 73 km, upp, över och nerför en vulkanrygg. Det blir intressant att se om den här uppladdningen blir fisk eller fågel. Jag har aldrig tränat på den här extremt höga höjden förut, men hur det än går har jag haft fantastiska veckor i Kina!
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