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Expeditionsliv bland Himalayas vita berg är något som många bara drömmer om. Tack vare att vår vandring längst Everest Circuit sammanföll med en av guideföretagets klätterexpeditioner fick vi chansen att testa på ett dygn med expeditionsliv i Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Nu är jag hemma i Storuman, nyligen hemkommen från Nepal där jag varit guide-trainee hos Christina Sandström och Saran Subba på HiOnLife Adventures. Dygnet i Ama Dablam Base Camp var en väldigt liten del av vår långa vandring i Everestregionen men bland deltagarna så var det absolut den upplevelsen som stod ut som något speciellt och därför vill jag berätta lite om den.

Ama Dablam betyder ”moderns smycke” och har kallats ett av världens vackraste berg. Ama – moder, för de två bergsryggarna som går ned från toppen, som en omfamnande moder och dablam – smycke, för den hängande glaciär som syns ovanför gamla läger tre. Ama Dablam med sina 6856 meter över havet anses vara ett mer tekniskt berg att bestiga än exempelvis Mt Everest och innehåller passager med klippklättring som avskräckt många skickliga klättrare.



Vi började vår vandring från Pheriche på morgonen, med klara vyer mot de vita bergen framför oss. Pheriche är bland annat känt för sitt centrum för höghöjdsmedicin. För de som blir sjuka på berget är byn ofta första anhalt innan de kan flygas ner till Kathmandu. Pheriche ligger i skugga i en dal men det tog inte lång stund innan solen var uppe och värmde oss.

På vägen stannade jag, Christina och Ngima till i Shomare, där vi blev inbjudna i en lodgeägares kök på en kopp värmande havtornsjuice. På bilden med glaset syns det traditionella randiga förkläde som sherpakvinnorna bär. Havtorn växer i mängder i dalen mellan Pangbosche och Dingbosche och det är en bra möjlighet för lodgeägarna att kunna erbjuda en lokal produkt – som dessutom är väldigt nyttig och god! Havtorn sägs innehålla sex gånger mer vitamin C per 100 gram än vad apelsiner gör. Jag komponerade en egen special när vi var i Dingbosche och beställde ett stort glas varm havtornsjuice med riven ingefära samt honung i.


Vi lämnade den packning vi inte skulle behöva under campingen på en lodge i nedre Pangbosche och påbörjade vår vandring upp mot Ama Dablam Base Camp. Vandringen upp till baslägret går genom vackra rhododendronskogar och vi tar ca 700 svettiga höjdmeter på vägen upp. När vi kommit upp över första krönet och hade ca en timmes vandring kvar till baslägret kom Christinas man Saran tillsammans med en av klättersherporna och mötte oss med varm mangojuice och kakor.


Frågar man Saran och Christina så är baslägret i Ama Dablam det vackraste. Jag har ju inte så mycket att jämföra med förutom Everest Base Camp men kan inte annat än att hålla med. I Everest Base Camp står du i ett stort stenhav och ser inte självaste Mt Everest medan du i Ama Dablam Base Camp är rakt nedanför foten av det majestätiska berg du ska klättra. Själva tältplatsen är också en stor, öppen och grön yta, omgiven av vackra vita toppar. När vi kom fram tvättade vi av oss det värsta vandringsdammet och blev bjudna på härligt saftiga apelsiner – en försmak av den kulinariska upplevelse som vårt dygn i baslägret skulle bli.

Jag imponeras av bekvämligheterna. Madrasser, matsalstält med dukade bord, duschtält och toatält – med den fräschaste toaletten vi stött på under vandringen. De flesta expeditioner har begett sig hemåt vid det här laget och det är inte alls knökfullt i campet utan vi har gott om plats för oss själva. Ett tältläger i närheten av oss dansar loss och skrattar högljutt. Saran skakar lite på huvudet och säger med glimten i ögat att han inte vet om de faktiskt är där för att klättra eller bara för att festa.
 
Under högsäsong är det full aktivitet i campet och knappt en gräsplätt är ledig. Om kvällarna kan man se klättrarnas pannlampor avteckna sig som ett pärlband längst bergssidan. Christina berättar att det under riktig högsäsong går att få tag i det allra mesta i ett basläger. Speciellt i Everest Base Camp där det är så mycket människor. Det finns bageri, massage, spel… allt går att köpa för pengar.
Maten vi bjuds på är helt fantastisk! Helt andra smaker än de vi vant oss vid i lodgerna under de senaste veckorna. På kvällen dukas det fram en trerätters. Innan vi kryper ned i våra sovsäckar (efter att ha beundrat den stjärnströdda himlen en lång stund) får vi våra vattenflaskor fyllda med hett vatten så att vi kan lägga dem i sovsäcken och ha lite extra värme under natten. Det är en klar och kall natt och Christina tror att temperaturen kan krypa ned mot -15 grader. Väl i sovsäcken känns det inte så farligt kallt och vi somnar gott.
Väckning sker först omkring klockan åtta på morgonen, då de första solstrålarna närmar sig tältduken. Då har jag redan varit uppe en sväng och beundrat berget, men att få vakna till med en kopp kaffe i handen och förstummande vyer utanför tältduken är verkligen lyx! Milan och Dendi som var våra sherpor (vägvisare) på turen kom varje morgon och väckte oss med något varmt på sängen och jag kände mig alltid väldigt bortskämd men denna morgonen var verkligen något extra!
Efter frukost i solen tar vi en liten tur upp på kammen bredvid där vi har god uppsikt över Ama Dablam. Saran ritar upp och förklarar hur den normala klätterrutten går. Dagen innan vi kom upp var det en rysk fallskärmshoppare som omkom under sitt för dagen andra hopp från läger två på Ama Dablam.

Det måste ha varit väldigt fina vyer som gjorde att han gav sig upp igen.

Såhär i efterhand har jag svårt att tro att det var en slump att vi hamnade i Ama Dablam Basecamp. Saran och Christina är båda väldigt måna om gästernas upplevelse och tar alla chanser de får att leverera det lilla extra. Tack för det!

Om skribenten

Amanda Mannervik

Innovationsvetare och Fjälledare med passion för att springa långt. På Outside Sweden bloggar Amanda om en bransch i förändring, fjällsäkerhet, kärlek till naturen, prylnörderi och lite annat smått och gott. Vill bjuda dig som läsare på inspiration, fördjupad kunskap och utmana till nya tankar. 

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