Annons:
Ett fast inslag i Fjälledarlinjen är ”treveckorsturen”. En vintertur som eleverna får planera och genomföra själva. Under hösten och vintern har vi övat upp och läst oss till de färdigheter vi behövde för att planera och genomföra turen, gällande navigation och vägval, meteorologi, utrustning, samband och säkerhet, djur och natur samt kondition och idrottsnutrition.
Vi fick ett område på en karta som begränsning samt några datum att förhålla oss till. Dag åtta eller senast nio skulle vi infinna oss vid Luspasjavvre för avstämning och dag arton skulle vi vara tillbaka i Ammarnäs. Varje grupp fick med sig en InReach eller satellittelefon för nödsituationer samt vädervarningar. Jag var sambandsansvarig i min grupp.

Vår klass delade upp sig i grupper beroende på intresse och syfte med turen. Jag valde att gå med gruppen som ville upptäcka mycket av området, se varierad natur och göra långa dagsetapper. Vi satte som mål att nå Nasa Silvergruva, högst upp i hörnet av vårt tilldelade turområde. De andra grupperna fokuserade på topptur (Topptursgruppen) respektive att bara vara ute och ha det bra (Mysgruppen).

När vi gjorde vår turplanering delade vi upp dagarna mellan oss i gruppen så vi fick huvudansvar för att leda och göra detaljerad säkerhetsplan för lika många dagar var.

Antal dagar: 18 (10-27 april 2017).
Kallaste temperatur: Troligtvis omkring -20.
Kraftigaste vind: Troligtvis omkring 25 meter per sekund, säkert kraftigare i byarna.
Här kommer en (något censurerad) version av min loggbok från turen.
DAG 1
Vi kvitterade ut en stugnyckel för Vindelvaggi-stugorna vid Ammarnäs Turistbyrå eftersom vi bestämt oss för att avsluta turen med en bastu och stugnatt i Rävfallsstugan på väg tillbaka. Det var en ovanligt tyst och spänd klass med fjälledare som tog liften (med pulkorna!) uppför slalombacken när vi startade turen.
Väderobs: Blidgrader och gråmulet. Klabbföre. Det blåste friskt när vi kom upp på kalfjället. Förväntat hård vind och minusgrader till natten.

Fjäll23 redo för avfärd.


DAG 2
Lunchpaus vid Stabburet. Tågade på lite extra och tog oss längre än den planerade dagsetappen. Vi slog läger nära den lilla Skalkåtan. Vid det laget var vi inne i Skebbleskalet och det var svårt att finna lä i dalen. Malin och Heidi hade fått elaka skavsår på fötterna. Vi enades om att det var klokt att ta en vilodag dag tre för att låta kroppen återhämta sig och vänja sig vid den nya belastningen.

Väderobs: Nordvästlig vind, ca 10 m/sek i byarna. Bitvis fint hagel och snöfall. Ungefär -10 under natten och kanske -3 medan vi skidade.


DAG 3
Vilodag vid Skalkåtan. Patrick från förra fjälledarklassen åkte förbi på skoter och hejade. Han skulle hjälpa några vänner i området med bastubygge och hade fått i uppgift från vår föreståndare Åsa att slänga ett öga på oss. Adam och Alex klagar redan på att dem tagit med sig för lite godis men enas om att inte fråga om extraleverans via InReach då det inte är en nödsituation.

Väderobs: Vindomslag till svag sydostlig. Mildväder som rört sig in i dalen med blöt snö. Klart och vindstilla på morgonen, mulet under dagen och halvklart på eftermiddagen.

DAG 4

Skalkåtan till Dalavardo. Vi träffade på topptursgruppen vid en renvaktarstuga i Skebbleskalet och passerade lagom så vi hann filma ett riktigt fint åk de gjorde. Det hade snöat ca en decimeter under natten så det var lite fuktigt i tältet på morgonen. Vi startade strax efter nio på morgonen med en sydostlig vind i ryggen och gick ur dimmolnen in i ett fantastiskt gnistrande snölandskap. Alla var pigga och mådde bra så vi bestämde oss för att gå på längre än dagsplaneringen och fortsatte ända fram till Dalavardo-stugan. Det var en riktigt stor och fin stuga med en mysig övervåning där vi kunde passa på att torka kläder och sovutstyr. Vi meddelade Åsa via InReach om vår nya plan att klara av sträckan upp till Nasa Silvergruva innan Luspasjavvre eftersom vi låg så bra till och vädret och föret såg lovande ut. God stämning och bra vägval under dagen. Pigg i kroppen. Liten känning i halsen på kvällen. Firade med torkad mango när vi kom fram. Blåsigt och kallt på kvällen. Kokade upp vatten och duschade av mig lite snabbt bakom husknuten.
DAG 5
Fortsatte på leden norrut. Det blev en lång dag med vackra vyer. Stannade till och spanade in Länsstyrelsens fina stuga i Vinkelkroken på eftermiddagen innan vi korsade älven och tog höjdmeter upp på kalfjället. Actionfylld åkning med pulkorna ned till älven… Liten känning i vänster hälsena på kvällen efter all skråkörning. Klart till halvklart väder med lätt ostlig vind. Torrt och kallt. Gissningsvis -12.
DAG 6
Jag ledde. Klart till halvklart och ”sibirienvindar” (kall, torr, ostlig). Skönt att ha vinden i ryggen när vi äntligen kom ner i Randalen. Slog läger bredvid en förfallen renvaktarstuga som fungerade bra som vindskydd åt köket.

DAG 7
Nasa Silvergruva tur och retur utan pulkor. Alex kvar i lägret med buff och goggles över ansiktet på grund av ont i ögonen av det starka ljuset. En riktigt fin dag med strålande sol. Mötte två skoteråkare samt en skidande norrman med en väldigt glad hund i nödstugan i Nasa. Öppnade Kinderägg och skålade när vi kom fram till gruvan. En intressant sak var att vi valde att gå på kompass ner till vad vi trodde var gruvan istället för att lita på magkänslan och den här gången visade sig samtliga kompasser ge felutslag trots att vi räknat med missvisningen. Vi hamnade två kilometer fel, vid renvaktarstugan, istället för att komma rakt på Nasa. Troligtvis på grund av de höga mineralhalterna i området. Nästan vindstilla (nordostlig).

We made it! Nasa Silvergruva bjöd på strålande sol!


DAG 8
Vi följde Randalen tillbaka till deltat vid renbetesområdet. Klar och fin dag med några fluffiga moln. Magisk lägerplats med kvällssol och möjlighet att sitta ute och smälta snö och torka kläder och sovsäck innan vi kröp till kojs.

Alex hade fortsatt ont i ögonen men skidade på med ena ögat helt mörklagt.

DAG 9
Ankomst till Luspasjavvre där vi förenades med resten av klassen samt våra instruktörer Åsa och Håkan. Alex fick direktevakuera till Ammarnäs på skoter för att ta hand om ögonen. Troligtvis förstadie till brända hornhinnor av det starka ljuset. Vi reflekterade i helklass över turen så långt samt gjorde lavin-scenario-övningar för varandra.

På kvällen drog det in ett lågtryck som förebådade mycket snö det kommande dygnet. Betydligt varmare än tidigare. Busväder på ingång?

Vindmuren visade sig bli ännu mer nödvändig än vi trott…

DAG 10
Vilodag i Luspas. Sov riktigt bra första natten på länge. Känner ingen hunger idag. Det märks att kroppen är tacksam för återhämtningen. Åsa och Håkan skyndade hem efter lunch då det såg ut att tjockna vädermässigt. Bjöd oss på polarknäcke med smör innan de drog. Ljuvligt! Blöt snö och dålig sikt. Hagman fiskade upp en öring som han lagade till. Kroppen känns bra men knäna såg något vätskefyllda ut.

DAG 11
Inblåsta på Luspas. Sov, läste, skrev. Lyssnade poddar jag glömt bort att jag laddat ned (HUSKY, Trailrunner Nation, Talk Ultra och We Are Influencers) och rensade gamla bilder från telefonen. Topptursgruppen skulle gå åt motsatt håll från oss och skulle ha vinden i ryggen så de beslöt att ge sig av trots vädervarningen. Bra snack med min tältlagskompis samt kafferep hos Mysgruppen. Vädret lättade upp något vid lunch. Jag var sugen på att ge mig av men hade inte hjärta att piska igång de andra i gruppen som låg och sov.
DAG 12
Klass 1-varning med en byvind över 20 N/NV. Tätt snöfall och obefintlig sikt. Ångrade att vi inte gav oss av dagen före vid lunch när det var en liten lucka. Nu dröjer det nog tills imorgon innan vi kan ge oss av. Åsa rekommenderar oss via InReach att stanna där vi är. Misstänker att en högre makt har bönhört Heidis önskan om två tältnätter till samt utmanande väder innan vi beger oss ned från kalfjället.
Senare samma dag…
Fortfarande kvar – men i nytt tält! Det blåser satan ute och vi håller tummarna för tältbågarna. Det hade drevat över tältet i förmiddags och innan vi hann ut och skotta fram det så skulle en snäll tältgranne hjälpa till men lyckades komma åt tältduken med den vassa lavinspaden. RITSCH! Den lilla revan blev snabbt större och vi insåg snabbt att vi inte skulle kunna laga den i vätan och vinden. Vi försökte täcka för med snö och det fungerade helt okej till en början. Innertältet blev blötare och blötare och framåt eftermiddagen orkade tältduken inte stå emot det oavbrutna drevandet och vinden. Mysgruppen hade med ett stort tält per person så de var schyssta och lät oss ta ett så vi slapp trängas fyra i ett tält (vi hade skickat hem det tredje, ganska dåliga, tältet med Alex). Det trasiga tältet fick stå kvar och agera köksutrymme för snösmältning. Bränslesparande och skönt att slippa undan stormen för ett tag. Att gå ut och kissa i snöstorm är också intressant. ALLT blir snöblästrat på två röda. Fjällbrännan har börjat flaga lite på näsan och kinderna. Flera andra i grupperna har soleksem på kinderna och köldeksem på låren. Ser fram emot bastu i Rävfallet så småningom. Ber till alla vädergudar att vi får ge oss av söderut imorgon. Är det bara något bättre så kör vi. Mysgruppen har lagt om sin rutt så att de kommer att följa oss tillbaka mot Vindelälven då de inte skulle hinna med sin ursprungsrutt samt att de vill ha närhet till stugor för att torka upp efter busvädret. I övrigt, trött på socker!

DAG 13
Dalavardo. FINALMENTE!
Femton hårda kilometer i tung, ospårad snö. Hård vind och snöfall när vi startade från Luspas. I takt med att vi tog höjdmeter klarnade det upp lite och blev varmare. Vi tog sällskap med mysgruppen och jag ledde tillsammans med Rickard. Vi noterade våra gruppers olika inställning till skidandet. De ville gärna hålla högt marchtempo med få och korta pauser för att komma fram och slå läger tidigt medan vi hade vant oss vid rutiner där vi var effektiva men samtidigt unnade oss att njuta av utsikten och ta både för- och eftermiddagsfika ute i det fria.
DAG 14
Destination Mankeforsstugan längst led samt till stor del på Vindelälven som bar bra. Det blir tydligen mer strömt framåt Vitnjulsstugorna så där får vi se upp med hur vi går. Mystempo efter skön sovmorgon i Dalavardo. Snöfall som tätnade framåt eftermiddagen. Mildgrader och vindstilla.
DAG 15
Stugnätter ger inte lika god sömn för mig som de i tält har jag märkt. Lite stel i axlarna. Tog till den guidade mindfulnessträningen på kvällen och fick tillbaka harmonin i kroppen. Ljuvligt skidföre och snabba kilometertider! Rolig och fin dag! Såg en stor lavinkägla som gått på en nordsluttning mot Skebbleskalet till. Mötte Kenneth från The Silent Way med tre hundspann (två gäster från Nederländerna). Kenneth gick Fjäll10 och bor numer i Umnäs där han driver hundspannsföretaget med sin fru. Nu skulle de göra en tur om tio dagar längst Vindelälven och sedan tillbaka upp mot Umnäs via Laisälven.


DAG 16
Från Vitnjul till Rävfallsstugan. Ett franskt ungt par och deras vackra hundspann samt hangaround-labrador var redan på plats när vi anlände. Sträckan till stugan var väldigt fin och gick genom trolsk fjällbjörkskog med många små bäckar. Det sprack upp och blev soligt och fint lagom tills att vi kom fram till stugan. Sporadisk mobiltäckning för första gången sedan vi var uppe vid norska gränsen. Jag och Heidi (ja, hon är finsk) var märkligt nog de enda som ville basta men vi njöt i stora drag av bastu samt dopp i den iskalla Vindelälven. Håret blev inte rent dock, det krävs tuffare tag än så.
DAG 17
Jag ledde de fjorton kilometrarna ned till parkeringen vid vägbommen i Norra Ammarnäs där vi skulle bli upphämtade dagen därpå. Spännande åkning i skogen där det var kuperat och stenigt. Ett riktigt vackert naturreservat med gammal skog och varierad terräng. Såg en tjädertupp på nära håll och en del mindre fåglar. Bitvis klabbföre men från lunchtid strålande sol och skönt glid. Adam fick saltbrist halvvägs och var blek som ett spöke men det avhjälptes med chips och resorb.

DAG 18
Vi avslutade med en riktigt klar och kall sista natt i tält. Eftersom vi visste att vi skulle packa ihop dagen efter lyxade vi till det och stängde igen tältet mer än vi brukat för att få det varmt. Det var rejält blött av kondens när vi vaknade, precis som väntat, och det kändes lyxigt att bara kunna packa ner sakerna utan att bry sig om stormpackning av tält och systematik i pulkan. Lastade på pulkorna på släpet och laddade för #DUSCHOCHPIZZA vid hemkomst.

Fjäll23 glada och nöjda och redo för hemfärd.

NÅGOT JAG TAR MED MIG TILL NÄSTA GÅNG
1. Mer vintergas! Förutom de allra kallaste dagarna på kalfjället så fungerade det väldigt bra att använda Jetboil med Primus Winter Gas för att koka upp vatten. Skönt att slippa hålla på med bensin och det förskräckliga (men hyfsat fungerande) Primus ”say-what-stove” Omni-fuel.
2. Ett ordentligt gemensamt reparationskit och reparationsinstruktioner för tält. Uppenbarligen var Hillebergtältet vi använde av en årsmodell innan deras berömda ripstop-väv för det trasade sönder fullkomligt i stormen när det väl blivit en reva.
3. En bättre och storleksanpassad sele till pulkan. Den jag har är helt okej men något för stor så det skulle öka komforten och göra det lättare att dra.
4. Mer salta snacks! Fy tusan vad trött man blir på allt sött och kolhydratrikt. Chipspåsen och parmesanosten var det bästa i min matpåse.
5. En till termos i modell större hade varit skönt. Smälta snö smälta snö smälta snö…
KVARSTÅENDE FRÅGETECKEN

Hur tusan får man bensinköket att brinna jämnt och bra? Det sotar och gurglar trots att jag rengör det regelbundet och flaskan läcker nästan alltid lite när man monterar det på köket. Svårt att undvika att få lite bensin på fingrarna, vilket kan vara förödande när det är kallt. Bensinen brände hål på tummen i min liner-vante när jag inte märkte att det läckte. Fick en brännblåsa på fingret som vart rätt otäck men annars gick det bra.

NÅGRA LÄRDOMAR FRÅN TUREN
Förutom säkerhetsutrustningen (inklusive reparationskit och medkit) så använde jag faktiskt allt i packningen den här gången så tycker inte att jag hade med något onödigt. Hade med mer mat än jag behövde (fem extra middagar) men det räknar jag också in som säkerhet ifall vi skulle behövt vara ute längre än planerat.

Det är svårt att veta på förhand hur turen ska bli och hur hårt det kommer att upplevas – speciellt när man gör något nytt. Vädret och föret påverkar mycket så det går inte riktigt att jämföra från år till år även om det är under samma period. I höstas när vi påbörjade utbildningen trodde jag att treveckorsturen skulle bli mycket mer tuff och utmanande än vad den verkligen var. Istället för att se det som ett antiklimax och vara besviken så tänker jag att det är bra att ha fått en fin upplevelse och komma hem och vara taggad på mer. InReach fungerade väldigt bra som kommunikationsmedel. Batteriet höll bra i kylan.

Sammanfattningsvis, en underbar tur i trevligt sällskap och jag är sugen på mer!

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