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Ett lyckat äventyr innehåller för mig alltid inslag av nya utmaningar som ska övervinnas och gärna ny kunskap som ska inhämtas. I detta fall är det bestigningen av Kebnekaise nu i maj som kräver nya kunskaper och praktiserande på berg med snö och is. Istället för att åka norröver åkte jag söderut 10 dagar till Sierra Nevada i Spanien.

Efter kursen och de extra dagarna på plats så känner jag mig trygg i mina nya kunskaper och förberedd för utmaningen att bestiga Kebnekaise i maj på ett säkert sätt och sen ner igen. Kommer bli grymt! Sista veckan i februari åkte jag ner till Sierra Nevada med min träningskompis Vilma. Fyra dagar kurs, vila en dag och sen spendera tre dagar med att bestiga de tre högsta topparna i området.

Foto Spanish Highs - Fred and Vilma in the Bedrock

Grunderna
Kursen och upplägget anordnades av Spanish Highs som är ett lokalt företag grundat av Richard Hartley från England. Vi hade två instruktörer under vistelsen, Richard och Jens Foell. Riktigt bra! Vi spenderade första dagen på relativ låg höjd och i typiskt svenskt sommarväder för att vi skulle kunna tillgodogöra oss alla moment innan vi gav oss upp på drygt 3 000 m, kyla, snö och blåst.

Foto: Spanish Highs

Att knyta in sig i ett replag på rätt sätt och hantering av repet är verkligen en konstform i sig. När man tar sig framåt i en alpin miljö ska man använda underlaget, klippor och det som finns för att säkra varandra. Man lägger repet på ett sätt runt en klippa så att man kan säkra den som kommer efter. Ett samspel i hela replaget som kräver en hel del övning och kommunikation.

Säkring med "Italian wedge"
Hjälm, klättersele, rep, karbiner etc. Nya knopar och olika sätt att säkra varandra, glaciärräddning, fira ner, klättra upp och många moment som måste nötas in efter kursen. En ny och spännande värld av kunskap.

Isyxa, stegjärn, stavar och snöskor
Nästa dag upp till snön! En viktig del i att ta sig fram på is och snö är att ha rätt utrustning beroende på omständigheter. Bra kläder med flera lager och möjlighet att reglera så man inte börjar svettas. Blir man blöt så kyls man ner fort och svårt att bli torr igen när det är minusgrader. Inte bra alls. Så lugnt,  fint och anpassa klädseln hela tiden är bästa metoden när man rör sig upp och ner.  

Fredrik och Vilma

Sen tillkom nya saker. Isyxan var oerhört användbar som hjälpmedel för att kontrollera snön, göra sittplatser i snön, få bort is, säkra, och stoppa ett fall(!). Sen var det dags att öva på att ramla och stoppa ett fall med isyxan.  ”Ramlar du så lyft fötterna så inte stegjärnen fastnar så du börjar tumla utan kontroll”, sa vår guide Jens till oss. Sen visade han och vi övade på olika sätt att stoppa ett fall med isyxan. Upp, ner, upp, ner och upp igen. Bara att nöta på.

_DSC5618

”Ice axe self arrest” heter det och går ut på att med isyxan få stopp på ett fall oavsett hur man ramlar. På rygg, mage, huvudet ner eller fötterna ner. Det enda gemensamt var att man skulle hamna i samma slutposition och alltid ha fötterna upp! Det här kommer jag öva på hemma i de brantare pulkabackarna helt klart!

Upp på Pico Veleta på 3 394 m
Dag tre efter lunch begav vi oss uppåt med stegjärn, packning och isyxa och slog läger i ett obemannat ”refugio”, en enkel ouppvärmd hytta i sten med sovplatser av trä. Den låg knappt tvåhundra höjdmeter från toppen av Pico Veleta, som var en av de tre topparna vi ville bestiga.

På väg upp till vårt baslägerEfter att ha fixat iordning våra sovplatser begav vi oss vidare uppåt för att nå toppen och hinna ner runt solnedgången. Det är verkligen speciellt att komma upp på en topp. Stå där och blicka ut på allt runtomkring gör mig bara glad och varm inombords. Men det gäller att komma ihåg att det bara är halvvägs, det gäller att ha energi att komma ner igen på ett säkert sätt.

Pico Veleta

Ljuset i kombination med isen och snön var magisk uppe vid toppen, svårt att beskriva i ord men känslan jag bär med mig är att jag vill tillbaka dit för att uppleva det igen. Vi tog oss ner till vår sovplats, lagade middag och hoppade i sovsäckarna. Morgondagen skulle bli tuff och lärorik.

Ut på iskammen i stormvind
Det skulle bli en tuff dag berättade Jens när han kom tillbaka efter at ha kontrollerat bergskammen där vi skulle ut. Vinden blåste i 15 m/s och det var en rejäl isansamling som kommit under natten.

Vi tog på oss utrustningen, gick ut och knöt in oss. Sen började vi arbeta oss ut längs kammen lugnt och fint. Det stupade verkligen utför på sidorna men meter för meter tog vi oss fram och det var verkligen tufft att ta sig fram på isen, tänka på alla moment och samtidigt ha koll på allt runtomkring.

Slutprovet

Första gången ute på en bergskam som dessutom var täckt av is (!) med stegjärn och isyxa. Pulsen slog högre och jag fick påminna mig att andas lugnt och ta det lugnt. Viktigt att lita på utrustningen och göra allt i rätt ordning.  Vinden tryckte på, isen var obarmhärtigt glatt men stegjärnen och isyxan fick bra grepp och det gick bra.

Jens och FredrikVår guide konstaterade att det var tuffare än vanligt och att vi hade gjort bra ifrån oss. Kändes bra, men helt klart är att det är mycket kvar att öva och lära. Ska bli kul! Vi tog oss ner, tillbaka till hotellet och en hel vilodag innan vi skulle ut på tre dagars praktisering.

Höjdrädd jag? Inte längre
En kraftig snöstorm drog oväntat in och vi fick anpassa vår plan. Så är det med berg, vädret skiftar snabbt och man får köpa läget. Ingen toppbestigning den dagen utan vi begav oss till Los Vados och praktiserade ledklättring med en 20 m replängd upp för en 300 m hög via ferrata utan vajer.

Jag har under större delen av mitt liv varit rejält höjdrädd . Jag fick då direkt pulspåslag, svindel och lite panik. Men sen jag började utsätta mig för lite höjd och senare började klättra inomhus för ett par år sedan så har det sakta blivit bättre.

Los Vados

Nu stod jag där vid foten av en rak bergvägg med vår guide Jens längst fram, Vilma i mitten och sist jag. Tankarna for och jag tog första greppet och började klättra första metern, bara 299 m kvar. Någonstans 200 m upp och med 100 m kvar att klättra insåg jag att jag inte längre hade en okontrollerbar rädsla. Ingen panik. Respekt för höjd absolut, men ingen rusande puls och ingen svindel. Riktigt häftigt! I mitt fall stämde det att det går att träna bort höjdrädsla med tålamod och under kontrollerade former.

Fredrik och Vilma på väggen

Har med mig ännu en positiv erfarenhet, nya kunskaper och frågor hem. En kurs i ledklättring inomhus står helt klart på vårens program!

Upp mot toppen i snöstormen
De sista två dagarna med vår guide var det Mulacen, den högsta toppen i Sierra Nevada som stod på programmet. En dags vandring upp till ett bemannat refugio, Poqueira, för att sen dagen därpå ta oss upp på toppen och sen hela vägen ner till  vår startpunkt där vi lämnat vår jeep. Snöskor, stegjärn, isyxa, hjälm, sele, rep och stavar i packningen.

Det är svårt att fånga på bild hur hård vinden var eller hur kraftigt snön slog in i ansiktet som nålar. Men jag kan lova att det kändes oavsett om det syns på bild.  Bara att dra ihop huvan och gå på.

Mot Poquiera i snöstorm

En riktigt bra erfarenhet att mala på och uppleva kontrasterna av ’snällt’ och ’hårt’ väder om vartannat. Det märktes att vi hade mer vana dessa dagar än när vi började kursen. Framme! Känslan av att komma in i värmen och få sitta ner till lagad mat var fantastisk. Snön piskade utanför i blåsten och vi åt middag inomhus med en sprakande brasa i bakgrunden. Gött mos helt enkelt.

IMG_5289Stormen tilltog till orkanstyrka högre upp och vi ändrade planen. Vi åt frukost och inväntade att vinden mojnade något och begav oss nedåt. Mulacen kommer vara kvar och vi besöker toppen en annan gång.

Fredrik och Vilma på väg nerMärkligt med berg, så beroendeframkallande!  Två timmar i kraftig snöblåst på väg ner och helt plötsligt så kom vi ner till sol och behagligt väder. Väl tillbaka var vi rätt trötta och det var verkligen skönt att få sträcka ut sig på hotellsängen och få sova en eftermiddagslur. Vilken upplevelse vi haft!

Capileira

Summa summarum – Jag vill tillbaka igen!
Vi har haft det riktigt bra och jag kommer åka tillbaka och upptäcka mer av Sierra Nevada! De tre topparna vill jag absolut bestiga men även upptäcka mer av naturen och området. Bra mat, härliga människor och ett magiskt område. Hör av dig om du funderar på att åka ner så kan jag absolut dela med mig av tankar och tips.

Pico Veleta 3 394 m

 

Om skribenten

Fredrik Hjorth arbetar som managementkonsult inom bank och finans med fokus på värdepappershandel och penningtvätt. Han är projektledaren som parallellt med sina uppdrag lever ut sina äventyrsdrömmar och inspirerar andra att ta tag i sina. Han har bl.a. cyklat 150 mil med all packning till Kebnekaise för att sen packa om, vandra in och bestiga berget. Vid sidan om sitt vanliga arbete arbetar Fredrik även som guide på Expeditionsresor till bl.a. Kilimanjaro och Nepal. Att hitta näräventyr som fungerar i vardagen är något Fredrik specialiserat sig på. Under hela 2017 genomförde han sitt projekt 52 veckor - 52 nätter, där han sovit ute i tält minst en natt i veckan ett helt år. ’

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